When I called myself A Travelling Accountant in April 2017, I imagined myself posting about vacation trips with some volunteering travel mixed in.
My first posts were about my first volunteer assignment through Accounting for International Development (AFID), to Cambodia, where I spent May and June 2017 working as a pro-bono accounting consultant.
Sole passenger on the mighty Mekong – Phnom Penh
Life happened quickly and dramatically, and somehow, I celebrated my 5th anniversary in Kampala Uganda in January 2024. Here is a sunset view from my lovely garden.
Though Cambodia was the first time I volunteered abroad as an accountant, it was on a different type of volunteering trip in 2012 that the seed of the dream was planted. That trip, I was one of nine employees selected to travel to rural Peru to provide solar lighting for 30 families living outside of a small village in the Andes. I shared a small post and some of my favourite photos here in October 2018.
I still suck at selfies but this young lady and I shared some laughs
Like many people, the Covid pandemic gave me a taste of remote work. I liked it. A lot. In early 2021, I was fortunate to land a remote role with the NGO that brought me to Uganda, saving me from Kampala commutes to the office, and now I can’t imagine working any other way.
After almost 5 years with that NGO it was time to move on. I took some steps to prepare for a new career as an accounting consultant – I revised my LinkedIn profile, bought a portable second monitor, travel keyboard, long range flight gear. The Universe listened. And AFID helped, of course. Now I work fully remotely, for a UK NGO that operates in Zambia. I live in Uganda, travel to Zambia and, best of all, can work from Canada too. I am no longer limited to 4 weeks of vacation to visit my family.
Why the background? To share how a girl from a small town in northern Manitoba somehow ended up living in Uganda, working as Director of Finance for a small NGO that trains young Zambians in construction and who will spend April 2024 living and working in Valencia Spain!
Me & my Zambian colleagues before pelting each other with paint – Jan 2024
I will be in Spain for the entire month of April and intend to post weekly while I am there, sharing my adventures and daily experiences on the Spanish Mediterranean, travelling with Remote Year.
Who/what is Remote Year? A travel agency? Yes. A community? Yes. From the website: Work remotely. Explore the world. We’ll handle the rest.
I would love to do a full year tour of all the continents but I will start with one month. Maybe next time it will be a four month tour.
I hope you will come along with me through my posts. And if you are interested in trying Remote Year yourself, I have a referral link that will save us each $100!
It’s been a long while since I’ve posted. I had to look at my website to see, because I couldn’t remember. It’s mid-November 2023 and I have posted twice this year. Doing a third post means I am tripled my activity in 2022 and passed 2021 by one.
It’s not that I haven’t done any travelling. I have. I’ve gone on safaris and been a stone’s throw from wild rhinos – twice. I have even checked the box of seeing the shoebill stork in the wild, and finally got to Europe on a work trip to the Netherlands. And this summer I travelled back to Canada and married my daughter, literally as I performed the ceremony. Why no posts? I can’t really say. And, of course, there is nothing stopping me from sharing about those adventures in the future.
But today, I am inspired to be a little philosophical. It is surprising, and a little sad, how extraordinary things can become ordinary to us when we forget our sense of wonder. Here I am, a small town girl from rural Manitoba Canada, living in Kampala, Uganda for nearly five years now. A long way from home. If you want to know how long, try flying here from western Canada. But somewhere along the way I let the wonder slip away.
It’s time to bring it back.
The impetus for this shifting back is, again, a simple walk in a new neighbourhood. A change in job led to downsizing my rent, but, it turns out, upscaling my overall circumstance.
Last Sunday I found a lovely walking route, approximately 2km long. It is a full circle which is not common in Kampala, a city of “Closes” and dead ends. And I don’t go near a main road. On this walk I discovered I am within a kilometer of the lake. This morning I walked the route again and took some photos to share with my best friend. While taking the pictures I remembered that this is not just any lake. It is Lake Victoria.
Here are the photos I took for Kim. Though the sky isn’t blue, it was warm and I was wearing shorts. As I come around the bend, less than 5 minutes into the walk, the lake appears. This part of the walk is downhill. On Sunday morning it is a musical walk, as there are a few churches on the route.
The road turns 90 degrees at the black gate and then I walk parallel to the lake for a while, every now and then there is a view on the left. I end heading up hill back home. Keeping in mind that the entire walk is only 2km gives an idea of how close to the lake I am.
As described by Wikipedia, Lake Victoria is one of the African Great Lakes. With a surface area of approximately 59,947 km², Lake Victoria is Africa’s largest lake by area, the world’s largest tropical lake, and the world’s second-largest fresh water lake by surface area after Lake Superior in North America. And here I am, just strolling through my hood adjacent to it. A lake so big that it’s shores touch five countries – Uganda, Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. A lake so big that it’s shores touch five countries – Uganda, Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania.
From my humble roots in rural Manitoba, I ended up making a home here and I have visited three of those five countries. I haven’t been out of the airport in Kigali, so I can’t add Rwanda to the list yet, and I haven’t been to Tanzania yet, though Zanzibar is calling loudly.
The world is amazing. Life is a gift, not a mundane exercise to be endured, it is indeed what we make it.
Wonder: A feeling of amazement and admiration, caused by something beautiful, remarkable, or unfamiliar. Similar: awe, admiration, wonderment, fascination, surprise, astonishment, amazement
It is my intention to rekindle my wonder. I hope you will join me.
Ride 4 A Woman is where I stayed when I went gorilla trekking in February. The day before my trip, my fabulous tour operator called me to ask if I was okay with switching my accommodation to a different hotel. I took a look at the website linked above and said Yes Please!
This is a short post, to share this amazing organization with my small following and perhaps inspire someone to donate, shop their store or stay when they come to see the gorillas.
When you arrive you are are immediately greeted, welcomed and offered fresh juice. A staff member gives an introduction to the hotel and the overall organization.
From their website:
Ride 4 a Woman was set up in 2009 by Evelyn Habasa and her husband Denis Rubalema. The organization exists to support local women struggling at home with issues associated with HIV, domestic violence and poverty.
More than 300 women from 11 villages now use or work at the Ride 4 a Woman community centre, where they can learn to pedal sew, weave baskets, dance, sing and drum; learning new skills, making a living and making it possible for their children to gain an education.
The organisation also offers microfinance, helping women to help themselves and support their families. To date over 100 women are actively engaged in the Ride 4 a Woman Microfinance Program.
This retreat in the local community offers local women a place to stay, something to eat and a wage while they learn new skills. Every day we welcome visitors to Stay With Us, Learn From Us, Shop or simply drop by to see what is going on.
Under the Story section on the site, check out the Safe Water Project. Ride 4 a woman provides over 150 litres of clean water to the community every day, without charge. I thought I took a picture but I cannot find it, but you can see the water station on the website. Safe Water Program
Now I am simply going to share my videos and picture, because the place sells itself.
First, let me show you my room:
I was in a room in Noel’s Cottage, with a lovely veranda and spectacular view
Here are some photos of the grounds and restaurant, and another view picture
This lovely stream runs through the compound, below the balcony of the restaurant.
The shop is beautifully stocked with quality textile goods, woven baskets, coffee and more, all from the local area and much of it made in the workshop. I had a lovely wrap skirt made for me. I selected the fabric and had the finished skirt that same day. I was told they ship around the world, so contact them or me if you see something you love. Canadian friends, I can bring things home with me in July…..
I close with a short video I took as I left my room on the final morning.
After four years in Uganda I finally invested in a trip to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to go Gorilla Trekking. It was so worth it!
I say invested, because the trekking permit cost USD $600 for me. That is the price after the $100 Uganda resident discount I got because I live and work here. I agree with the cost, as it contributes to the protection of the gorillas financially and by ensuring only serious tourists gain access to them.
This post is about the trekking. I will make another post about the rest of the trip, including the great place I stayed in Bwindi.
The day started peacefully with this view as I left my room at Ride-4-a-Woman
After a nice breakfast I was driven to the Uganda Wildlife Authority building in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park where we were treated to some dancing by local women.
After the dancing we were given an orientation about the trekking, including the explanation as to why we needed to wear masks when near the gorillas. Gorillas do not get covid-19 or other vaccinations, yet they are susceptible to our diseases. That was sufficient for me and I masked up for the entire time we were around the group.
We were then split into groups and told which gorilla family we would be tracking. I relied on my memory, so I cannot tell you which group we were assigned. I can tell you that it has eight members – 2 silverbacks, 1 blackback (teenage male), 3 adult females, and 2 little ones. The name of the dominant silverback is in the local language but translates to “Complicated” which I found quite amusing.
One of the couples in our group had been trekking the day before. They said they hiked for 3 hours before finding their group. They were basically stationary for their 1 hour with the gorillas and the poor wife was bitten mercilessly by ants and mosquitos. She was prepared for more of the same so sprayed down and tied her hood tightly around her face.
This was the base photo for my time calculation. The gorillas found us 10 minutes later.
That would not be our experience though. Based on the timestamp of my pictures, we were barely 10 minutes along the trail when the UWA trackers smelled the gorillas (we didn’t). A few minutes later, the family crossed the trail BEHIND us and the trek was on.
Here they are crossing the trail behind us – silverback, toddler and the black back (I think)
Interesting tidbit for those who may go trekking – you are given a strong walking stick to help with the hiking. It is a mountain and rainforest, so the ground is not flat or dry. But, once you find the gorillas, you must surrender your stick to avoid seeming aggressive. No problem, if you find the group already settled.
While our group was considerate enough to find us, and quickly, they decided to lead us through the forest for about thirty minutes before settling on a nice place for brunch. So we followed, down wet slopes, across slippery mucky trails, through bushes and grasses, without the help of our trusty walking sticks. I am proud to say that I did not end up face or ass down on the ground at any time.
The black back felt like showing us he’s boss as we followed the group. I was lucky enough to have my video on at the time.
Teenage bravado
Eventually they settled down to eat. There are not words to describe the privilege I felt, that this group of intelligent beings allowed us to spend so much time with them while they ate. They did not seem concerned about us at all. Our guides cleared foliage so that we could watch three members of the group easily. We were so lucky – the three were the top silverback, a mama and the 3 year old.
Once our time was up, we headed back to the trail. I missed my walking stick more on the way back, probably because I was not pre-occupied anticipating the gorillas. We met up with the porters and returned to the center.
The rest of the post is videos and photos because there isn’t anything else to say, except that I am so happy I finally did this.
Mom & Pop having some chow. The moving bushes are other group members.
The weekend of September 24 to 26I took a solo retreat to the Mabira Rainforest, located outside of the town Lugazi, almost midway between Kampala and Jinja.
Scenery near Lugazi
I was connected to a driver by the Lodge. Reagan picked me up Friday afternoon at home in Muyenga, Kampala and we set off. We missed the worst of the traffic jams. If you know Kampala, you understand how significant that is. It also helps to have an experienced driver that knows side routes to escape the worst of the jams.
Some 2.5 to 3 hours later we turned off the highway and made our way to the lodge, which is surrounded by forest.
I was at the lodge in January 2020 with my soul sister Kimberley for a walk through the forest, but we did not stay after the walk. I have wanted to return ever since.
The accommodations are all individual cabins, each set off the meandering trail with forest sounds, smells and views.
My cabin was at the bottom of the trail, quite remote and absolutely perfect. The room was spacious and luxurious, well appointed with a king-sized bed, a reading nook with a day bed, a desk and a beautiful deck that is so close to the forest I could almost lean over and touch leaves. The bathroom included a massive rain shower shaped from clay, and the lovely artisan soaps provided suit the eco theme of the lodge.
My room
Inside my room
this shower!
My beautiful deck
The dining room at night. Perfect, peaceful setting
Given the rainforest location, it gets cold at night. There is no heating in rooms or homes in Uganda, but the cozy duvet and extra blanket kept me very warm in the middle of my king bed. I slept very well both nights soothed the sounds and smells of the rainforest.
Well, soothed by most of the sounds of the rainforest. When you check in, the front desk warns you of the not-so adorable sounds that come out of a cuddly looking rainforest creature, the hyrax. It is impossible to reconcile the sound it makes to the sweet face. They warn you that at night you may here something that sounds like an adult yelling in alarm. I was glad for the warning when I heard the call or I would have run outside to assist my neighbour! Instead, I simply chuckled at the accuracy of the warning.
Friday evening I enjoyed a small gathering with my driver and some other guests and staff around a large fire pit, reminiscent of home. We listened to the musical choices of a few different people on a portable speaker and revelled in the simple pleasure of company and a fire.
I woke up Saturday morning feeling rested and full of peace. People find their peace in different ways and places. Kim’s happy place is the sea and its beautiful beaches. For me, it is the forest. Whether it is the boreal forest where I grew up, the small rainforest I found on Koh Rong island in Cambodia, or the Mabira Rainforest in Uganda. The trees, ferns, moss, mushrooms all come together into a nature cocktail that brings me back to center.
The morning peace continued to grow as I enjoyed the breakfast buffet with a view of the forest, including visiting monkeys in the trees. The coffee, fruit, juice and omelet on request were delicious and satisfying.
A pair of monkeys grooming, taken from my deck
I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do for the day as I slowly walked back down the path to my rooms, stopping here and there to take photos of the foliage, including of course some mushrooms. Would I take a walk, swim, sauna, sleep?
I settled on my deck to decide and ended up spending a couple of hours relaxing and monkey watching. There was a group of red tailed monkeys in the trees and they remained in my vicinity for quite a while. Some were resting and grooming, others were foraging and playing, or perhaps squabbling.
I spent Saturday wandering around the property between the restaurant grounds, my room and the pool. I did not end up taking a swim but I did enjoy some poolside lounging while watching more (or the same) red tailed monkeys.
I didn’t end up taking a dip for two reasons. First and foremost, it was a warm day but not hot, so the water was not calling out to me. Secondly, a birthday party of several children arrived shortly after I did. The kids were having such fun in and around the pool and I did not want to infringe on their play. I watched and enjoyed it for a while and then strolled back to my little private haven in the forest.
The fire on Saturday evening was cut very short due to rain, but I still enjoyed a lovely barbeque dinner, some wine and then a quiet night in my room. I slept the long, restful slumber of complete peace and relaxation.
The pathways are works of art
Sunday morning I woke up, enjoyed a little more deck time, packed and headed up for breakfast.
Vine art, view from my deck
As I was checking out, I noticed that the guide was about to take a couple out on the rainforest tour. I asked if I could tag along. That is how I managed to get the walk in despite not booking one! I was talking with the female half of the couple a little bit during the walk. We shared how long we had been in Kampala (both since 2019, me January, they September). And it turns out I was walking with the Norway Ambassador to Uganda and her husband! I thought that was a little bit cool.
These are a few of the multitude of fungus photos I took on the weekend. I may add a photo gallery of mushroom pictures from my travels. You may already know, I love photographing them but hate eating them!
I dubbed this mushroom The Enterprise, for obvious reasons
Once my walk was over, I settled up my bill, made my contribution to the tip box and headed back to Kampala with my driver. Again he managed to skirt much of the traffic we encountered. He is very friendly and professional, as well as a good driver. He us not just a driver, but also a tour guide, I recommend him. His WhatsApp is +256 700 370740.
Wow! Even with the limitations and monotony imposed by a global pandemic, 2021 is flying by! Masks, curfews, social distancing, quarantines all over the planet for more than a year now. It almost feels normal at this point…
I am fortunate to live in Uganda where we so far have evaded the level of spreading that so many nations are experiencing. But I am also unable to visit my family in Canada. If I elected to go home right now I would have to choose between seeing my daughter or my parents, because interprovincial travel is a no-no. And that’s after paying for 2 weeks in quarantine. So I wait and hope.
I have a trip planned for my upcoming birthday, so I figure its about time I post something about my Christmas trip to Nairobi. I didn’t really do much touristy but I still have a tale or two to share.
I went to Nairobi with my guy, Maina, who is Kenyan, so I traveled a little differently than when I am a solo female.
First difference, we went by bus not plane. In non-pandemic times several busses run between Nairobi and Kampala and much of the travel time is at night. But these are pandemic, lockdown, curfew times so no night busses.
We got up just before the crack of dawn to be out catching a bodaboda in time to make the bus at 7am on Saturday morning. We naively assumed that would be easy. Not the case for us. At 6:30ish we were walking Bukasa Road with our backpacks wondering if we would make it!! Obviously we did, but it was a mildly stressful start to the day.
The bus got out of Kampala late, closer to 8:30am instead of the scheduled 7:30. Kenya curfew was 10pm at the time, so schedule mattered!
We were socially distanced on the bus…. 1 person per 2 seat side, so 2 per row. That was nice. I was determined to keep my mask on the entire 13-15 hour journey. I confess that after about 7 hours the combination of non-functioning air conditioning and nobody else keeping a mask on (except my guy, a true mask trooper) I was airing my face out regularly.
MASH bus depot Kampala, boarded and ready to goComplimentary water and coke, not so ample leg room 😆Masked Travelling AccountantMasked Travelling MainaLeaving Kampala Early morning Uganda landscape
A significant difference between the bus here vs at home is these ones have no toilets. So you pee when the bus stops. Period. Bus bathrooms are usually disgusting, but in a pinch they can save you. And, let’s face it, bus depot and service station toilets are also disgusting.
Rural Uganda
Does anyone else limit their water intake while traveling to minimize their water output?
The border was uneventful for me. I showed my negative covid test results and my work permit and through I went. No need to pay for a visa because I am a resident of East Africa:)
Maina had a wee bit of excitement. Because of travel bans he did not have the exit and reentry stamps he was required to have in July (every 6 months) Easily explainable, and with a small recognition to the border officer he was also through.
Interstate pass means no visa required Border crossing at BusiaFellow travellers at the Busia borderAnd now we are in KenyaBeauty stop?Rural Kenya
The ride was hot (see air-conditioning comment above), scenic, and uneventful until it became questionable if we would make it to Nairobi before curfew. Then my stressed out inner worrier emerged in full force. As we left Nakuru after 7pm, in unrelenting traffic, panic started to set in. What would happen if we got to Nairobi after curfew! Please understand that I have been responsible for trip planning ever since I got married the first time. I had no idea what we would do.
I needn’t have worried at all because of my travel partner. He grew up in the village but lived in Nairobi for more than 25 years, so he was not concerned. BUT he could see my panic rising, so he acted. He called a friend in the police force who assured him we should have no trouble but if we did, just call the friend back and he would send a car from the nearest detachment to deliver us to our Airbnb. My stress instantly subsided. There are so many ways to say I love you without saying the words. Calling an old friend for a favour just to ease the worry of your lady is definitely one of those ways.
This post is long already, but our late dark arrival in Nairobi is too funny not to include.
There is a crazy amount of construction on the roads approaching and in Nairobi. Like summer in Canada, where they shove 12 months of repairs into 5 months of work time.
Well, our bus drivers got lost! Yes, it is literally their job to know how to get to from the station in Kampala to the one in Nairobi, but nope. The changes were beyond their knowledge. It ended up with Maina and another passenger sitting up front trying to direct the driver.
When he realized that we were very close to the location of our Airbnb, at approximately 10:30 pm so 30 minutes past curfew, Maina asked me to trust him and get off the bus there. we were at a well lit round-about with a large service station. I said sure and we disembarked.
This service station was well populated, vehicles refueling, shoppers in the store and even the food counter was still manned despite being past curfew. We got food, beer and a taxi without any difficulty. Curfew in Nairobi was quite different than Kampala at that time!
The Airbnb was perfect. We settled in, had some beer, snacks and laughs and our vacation was underway. * we had some minor excitement mid-bus ride concerning the Airbnb but it all worked out.
Some water as we read the house rulesThe next morning. Posted without permission 🥴
It has been almost six months since I posted, but I am finally inspired to write again. I have had a follow up jackfruit post in my head for months, but so far it remains in my head.
The first weekend of December I took a mini vacation to Entebbe. It was my second mini vacay to Entebbe since Uganda lockdown restrictions lightened up. The first time I revisited 2 Friends hotel to take advantage of the reduced rates and, most importantly, get out of the apartment and Kampala for the first time in months.
This weekend we found our accommodation through Airbnb. It is hard to believe that this weekend´s cottage cost less for two nights than the first stay did for one. Yes, I said cottage. A magical little house on a beautiful property in lovely Entebbe.
Like Kampala, the most complicated part of getting anywhere is finding it. Uganda is not big on actual street numbers or street signs so Google maps is helpful but still not a perfect solution. Oh, and it was raining so the ´roads´ were even less road-like than usual. When we arrived at the property we had a good inch of road mud attached to the tires.
As a new couple we had some degree of tension while we navigated our way there, but we did not hit full argument so we considered it a successful experiment.
Then we got out of the car, saw the property and the gorgeous view of Lake Victoria and all remaining tensions just faded away.
Dickens met us at the gate and showed us around the cottage. We unloaded the vehicle and then went back out to get some dinner. We shared a whole grilled tilapia and fries at 2 Friends restaurant because it is a favourite of mine and I love to share.
Before & After – Approximately 20 minutes!
When we returned to the cottage there was a thermos of spiced tea waiting for us on the door because ¨it is the coldest day of the year¨. It actually was cold – even this Canadian girl was in a hoodie. But not December-in-Canada cold though, so I won´t rub in what the actual temperature was.
This little cottage is a tiny home dream. I could live there long term if I was able to remodel the kitchen slightly to allow counter space.
The entrance way doubles as a sitting area and dining area, with double doors that open to make it feel more like a patio than an inside room. The bedroom is beautifully appointed and the bathroom is roomy with a great shower.
Without a doubt, the library/sitting room/2nd bedroom was my favourite space. It has a cozy chair, desk and side table and a large window to make it feel larger and very open. The daybed functions as a second bed but also as a comfy sofa where we spent Saturday evening watching Out of Africa. Sure the movie is about Kenya, but it is still east Africa, right?
The artwork around the cottage is, I assume, the source of the cottage name – Casita del Arte. Original pieces full of colour and character. I was captivated all weekend as I discovered different details of the pieces as I studied and restudied them.
Our host, Dr Nathaniel Dunigan, keeps the house stocked with coffee, yogurt, nuts, granola and other sundry necessities and a fresh fruit basket greets you when you arrive. These small additions made the cottage even more homey and welcoming. Saturday morning we were gifted with some delicious chocolate muffins which I enjoyed from the elevated treehouse dining platform while reading our host’s book.
The property comes with five friendly canines. They are welcoming and quite happy to explore the cottage at every opportunity. Samson spent much of Saturday morning laying on the mat in the entrance way. This may not be the place for you if you do not like dogs, but it certainly is if you are a dog lover.
Of course no trip to Entebbe is truly complete for me until I go to Entebbe Botanical Gardens. We spent an hour or two on Saturday enjoying the Garden’s beach and the recent upgrades to the facilities. I still have not ventured in to Lake Victoria for a swim, but some day I will.
We need to work on our selfie game
Beautiful Lake Victoria
The sunset view when we returned was spectactular!
One final detail that made the stay perfect is that proceeds from the rental provide scholarships The AidChild Leadership Institute.
This is directly from their website https://aidchild.org/: “Airbnb Guestrooms at A.L.I., Entebbe – Charming, private guestrooms and baths inside the AidChild Leadership Institute (A.L.I.), a modern education facility. Your hosts are A.L.I.’s interns, welcoming you to also enjoy their library, spacious gardens with a lake view, and free WiFi! Eight minutes from the airport. Gym and swimming pool within walking distance. Proceeds from your stay pay for the academic needs of our interns.”
We had a peaceful and laid back weekend and were even offered a late checkout. We headed back to Kampala before 1pm and stopped along Gaba Road for some nyama choma before arriving home. *Nyama choma is a specialty of grilled goat meat, very popular in Kenya where it is considered the national dish. Yes, I eat goat now 🙂
We are going to Kenya for Christmas, negative Covid test dependent, so I will be eating more nyama choma and will also have something new to write about. This will be much less of a safari trip that last Christmas vacation, but I am sure it will still be an adventure.
A Travelling Accountant 