Retreat to the Rainforest

The Rainforest Lodge , Mabira Rainforest

www.geolodgesafrica.com

The weekend of September 24 to 26 I took a solo retreat to the Mabira Rainforest, located outside of the town Lugazi, almost midway between Kampala and Jinja.

Scenery near Lugazi
Scenery near Lugazi

I was connected to a driver by the Lodge. Reagan picked me up Friday afternoon at home in Muyenga, Kampala and we set off. We missed the worst of the traffic jams. If you know Kampala, you understand how significant that is. It also helps to have an experienced driver that knows side routes to escape the worst of the jams. 

Some 2.5 to 3 hours later we turned off the highway and made our way to the lodge, which is surrounded by forest. 

I was at the lodge in January 2020 with my soul sister Kimberley for a walk through the forest, but we did not stay after the walk.  I have wanted to return ever since.

The accommodations are all individual cabins, each set off the meandering trail with forest sounds, smells and views. 

My cabin was at the bottom of the trail, quite remote and absolutely perfect. The room was spacious and luxurious, well appointed with a king-sized bed, a reading nook with a day bed, a desk and a beautiful deck that is so close to the forest I could almost lean over and touch leaves. The bathroom included a massive rain shower shaped from clay, and the lovely artisan soaps provided suit the eco theme of the lodge.

The dining room at night. Perfect, peaceful setting

Given the rainforest location, it gets cold at night. There is no heating in rooms or homes in Uganda, but the cozy duvet and extra blanket kept me very warm in the middle of my king bed. I slept very well both nights soothed the sounds and smells of the rainforest.

Well, soothed by most of the sounds of the rainforest. When you check in, the front desk warns you of the not-so adorable sounds that come out of a cuddly looking rainforest creature, the hyrax. It is impossible to reconcile the sound it makes to the sweet face. They warn you that at night you may here something that sounds like an adult yelling in alarm. I was glad for the warning when I heard the call or I would have run outside to assist my neighbour!  Instead, I simply chuckled at the accuracy of the warning.

Friday evening I enjoyed a small gathering with my driver and some other guests and staff around a large fire pit, reminiscent of home.  We listened to the musical choices of a few different people on a portable speaker and revelled in the simple pleasure of company and a fire. 

I woke up Saturday morning feeling rested and full of peace. People find their peace in different ways and places. Kim’s happy place is the sea and its beautiful beaches. For me, it is the forest. Whether it is the boreal forest where I grew up, the small rainforest I found on Koh Rong island in Cambodia, or the Mabira Rainforest in Uganda.  The trees, ferns, moss, mushrooms all come together into a nature cocktail that brings me back to center. 

The morning peace continued to grow as I enjoyed the breakfast buffet with a view of the forest, including visiting monkeys in the trees. The coffee, fruit, juice and omelet on request were delicious and satisfying.  

A pair of monkeys grooming, taken from my deck

I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do for the day as I slowly walked back down the path to my rooms, stopping here and there to take photos of the foliage, including of course some mushrooms. Would I take a walk, swim, sauna, sleep? 

I settled on my deck to decide and ended up spending a couple of hours relaxing and monkey watching. There was a group of red tailed monkeys in the trees and they remained in my vicinity for quite a while.  Some were resting and grooming, others were foraging and playing, or perhaps squabbling.  

I spent Saturday wandering around the property between the restaurant grounds, my room and the pool.  I did not end up taking a swim but I did enjoy some poolside lounging while watching more (or the same) red tailed monkeys.  

I didn’t end up taking a dip for two reasons.  First and foremost, it was a warm day but not hot, so the water was not calling out to me.  Secondly, a birthday party of several children arrived shortly after I did.  The kids were having such fun in and around the pool and I did not want to infringe on their play.  I watched and enjoyed it for a while and then strolled back to my little private haven in the forest.

The fire on Saturday evening was cut very short due to rain, but I still enjoyed a lovely barbeque dinner, some wine and then a quiet night in my room.  I slept the long, restful slumber of complete peace and relaxation.

The pathways are works of art

Sunday morning I woke up, enjoyed a little more deck time, packed and headed up for breakfast.

Vine art, view from my deck

As I was checking out, I noticed that the guide was about to take a couple out on the rainforest tour.  I asked if I could tag along.  That is how I managed to get the walk in despite not booking one!  I was talking with the female half of the couple a little bit during the walk.  We shared how long we had been in Kampala (both since 2019, me January, they September).  And it turns out I was walking with the Norway Ambassador to Uganda and her husband!  I thought that was a little bit cool.

These are a few of the multitude of fungus photos I took on the weekend. I may add a photo gallery of mushroom pictures from my travels. You may already know, I love photographing them but hate eating them!

Once my walk was over, I settled up my bill, made my contribution to the tip box and headed back to Kampala with my driver.  Again he managed to skirt much of the traffic we encountered.  He is very friendly and professional, as well as a good driver.  He us not just a driver, but also a tour guide, I recommend him.  His WhatsApp is +256 700 370740.