Tonle Batay & TaPruhm

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Today, June 28, I went to one last temple ruin outside of
Phnom Penh.  TaPruhm is a 12th
century temple and it is located by Tonle Batay which is a popular weekend
getaway for city dwellers.  Since it was
a Thursday, I was lucky to have the entire riverside to myself.

Unfortunately, I also had the temple to myself which meant
the children pestering for money descended on me and would not leave.  If you don’t know, it is recommended that
tourists to do not give money to the children as it discourages them from going
to school.  I past a few schools full of
children, so I do not doubt this.  I gave
the usual offerings to Buddha and also gave to several elderly locals, but the
two girls didn’t stop bugging me the entire temple tour.  I got some good pictures, paid my respects to
the temple and was out in about 15 minutes.

I spent about an hour sitting peacefully in the hut on the
river.  My tuktuk driver sat with me and
we talked as best we could.  His English is
not great but it is much better than my Khmer.
I made sure to compliment him for knowing what English he does.

I head home in three more days, ready or not.  I will likely post some more of my Cambodia
adventures over the next month or so, to share and just to reminisce.

Angkor Complex part 3

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Another delinquent Angkor post……

We visited the Baphuon (Khmer: ប្រាសាទបាពួន) temple June 4th.  It was our first stop of the day.

I loved this temple.
When reading about it I learned that the temple I got to see has had
significant restoration.  There are some
signs posted explaining some of the restorations that have been done.

This temple was constructed in the mid 11th
century (circa 1050s) Originally dedicated to the god Shiva, it was converted
in the mid 15th century to be a Buddhist temple.  That is when the reclining buddha was built.  Confession, when I first noticed the
roundness of that wall I thought it was because it was falling apart.  Granted, I was walking around the corner and
couldn’t see the front of the wall yet.
I still felt a bit silly when I took in the full figure from the front.

At the top of the temple there was a small area set up for
offerings, so I left my riel, lit an incense stick and said a small prayer.  It was very peaceful and, again, humbling.

I did some exploring on my own as Stephanie did not want to
scale the steps to the upper levels.
When I came back down I ventured off the beaten path, through a crumbled
doorway and took the selfie posted.  I
mean, I bought a selfie stick, I had to use it a couple of times!

On my way back to the tuk-tuk I saw a monkey,
and then another, and then I realized they were all around me.  They did not care about me one bit which made
it all the better.  No begging, no fear,
just completely uncaring about the human cutting through their late morning
shade.

Angkor Complex part 2

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Pre Rup (Khmer: ប្រាសាទប្រែរូប)
– a Hindu temple built as the state temple of Khmer king Rajendravarman.  It was dedicated in 961 or early 962, so it
stood for over 1000 years before I was born.

This temple was the last one we visited. The views
captivated me, as did the entire structure.
When I read up on it I understood why.
It is truly ancient.

I walked around the base slowly before leaving, lingering
and savouring what I knew was my last Angkor temple.  Nature even gave me several hundred mementos
to take away with me.  In my wanderings,
I passed through some kind of weed that stuck so many seeds into my pants that
it took me four sittings and one washing to get them all (most) out.  I think I will still be picking some out when
I put them on in Canada.

Note:  when Khmer
people pronounce the word, they say Kmai – like Thai.  So now I say it that way too

Angkor Complex part 1

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Taken June 2 2017 at Ta Prohm – the Tomb Raider temple, Siem
Reap

It was getting very hot at this point and this was our last
temple of the day.  I was in awe of the
entire place.  Nature had reclaimed so
much but the structure still dominates.
The mushrooms were growing along a crumbling wall.  Ruins are scattered around but you can still
walk in and around much of it.

Construction on Ta Prohm began in 1186 AD, and I was walking
in, around and on it 831 years later!
Humbling and truly awe inspiring.

Originally known as
Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to
the mother of King Jayavarman VII.

It’s a Scorcher Out There

June 13 – went for a walk at lunch today.  It seemed like a good idea at the time…..  It wasn’t a long walk.  45 celsius is 113 fahrenheit.  Or as I call it – hot AF

Oh, somebody was burning garbage too, at noon, in the sun, 45 celsius – Phnom Penh 🙂

About STT, Advocacy and Empowerment

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I am in Cambodia as a pro-bono accountant (volunteering) working for Sahamkum Teang Tnaut, or STT as they go by.  I have taken the following from their website to share

Mission

To provide pro-poor technical assistance for housing and infrastructure and to inform dialogue and raise awareness about urban issues

Background

Phnom Penh based Sahmakum Teang Tnaut (‘STT’) was set up  in September 2005 and officially registered with the Ministry of Interior in December 2006. ‘Teang Tnaut’ means ‘Sugar Palm Leaf’ in Khmer and is used for house construction, thatch roofs, sugar and packaging. This icon of the Cambodian landscape evokes a simplicity and  usefulness which STT tries to reflect in its work with urban communities. From the outset STT has had a focus on  infrastructure upgrading but over the past decade many communities have been impacted by development-related land alienation and evictions. Because of this STT has strengthened its research and advocacy to draw attention to  a development policy that in Phnom Penh alone has led to 150,000 residents being displaced since 1990.  By supporting genuine community complaints and grievances STT and its partners have been  helping communities articulate their concerns to local and international media, donors and other NGOs & INGOs.”

I am very proud to be associated with STT, even in my small role.

If you are interested in reading about one particular example, google

Boeung Kak.  Many were displaced, and STT works diligently to try to prevent more instances such as this.  Another example is the White Building, which is going on presently

Oh the Flora

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Flower post!  I am in awe of the many beautiful flowers and the variety of colours that I have seen in Cambodia.  I can’t stop taking pictures of them.

I still need to get a photo that does justice to the beautiful lotus flowers.  So more to come 🙂

Udong Temple, 500 steps to 5000 Buddhas

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Today, May 27 was a tourist day for me. My fellow accountant volunteer Stephanie and I took a tuktuk to Udong Mountain outside of Phnom Penh. It is a collection of temples and stupas around the small town of Udong. The highlight is at the top of 507 steps. The beautiful white building above is the first thing you see, and the most amazing 360° view. The older buildings date back hundreds of years.

We also stopped at a couple of other temples, where I found this amazing cobra stair rail. I have many more pictures which I may add after going through them.

My Cambodia Family

This is the family that I am renting my rooms from in Phnom Penh.  Vanny and his wife Seyha were both children during the Pol Pot Regime in Cambodia from 1975 to 1979.  Vanny is very open about his experiences as a child, and his life in some ways tragically mirrors what happened in his country.

Vanny was born in 1969 near the Cambodia/Vietnam border.  At that time, the US was bombing this region of Cambodia to target Veit Cong soldiers who may be hiding in Cambodia.  Of course, bombs do not discriminate so the local villagers were also bombed.  Vanny was actually born under a Buddhist temple as his mother and family hid from the bombs.  Somehow, he and his family survived this and later fled to Phnom Penh.

That might have seemed a safe move at the time, but it means that they were in Phnom Penh when it fell on April 17 1975.  So a young Vanny and his family were fleeing again, this time back to his home village.  The village did not receive them as returning neighbours though.  Instead they were seen as city dwelling refugees, outcast and looked down upon.

Vanny does not dwell on these difficulties, but instead presents them as stories of survival and a history to remember.  For example, his mother sewed extra pockets hidden into his clothes so he could hide away bits of food.  If they had been caught it would have been very bad, but somehow Vanny and most of his family survived.  I know that 7 of the 9 children are still alive today (Vanny is one of the youngest), but I am not certain if either of his deceased sisters perished during the regime or at some other time.

He tells of how rice is sacred to his generation and older ones, and even one grain was picked up if dropped on the ground.  I feel a small bit of shame each time I am too full to finish the rice they serve me.

Seyha does not speak English so I do not know much of her story.  Only that she is from northern Cambodia and lived much of her childhood in refugee camps on the Thai border.  I have read an account of these camps from a Canadian nurse who worked in them for 6 months in 1980 and I know this was a very hard childhood.  Her education opportunities were limited, but I assure you, she is an astute business woman.  I am watching as her coffee and food cart business is growing.  She is good!

They are working to provide greater opportunities for their two daughters.  The older just finished a level of schooling #1 in English and Cambodian.  They are very proud.  The younger daughter is also doing well.  She is less shy than her sister, and she showed me my first fidget spinner which she bought at the little shop at school.

I am very happy that I chose to pay my rent to this lovely Cambodian family instead of a hotel – not just because I am saving money.

Koh Rong, Sok San Resort

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I missed posting this week due to some abdominal issues. Some things I prefer not to over share – haha

It is a long weekend in Cambodia, so with 4 days off I took a trip. I am at the lovely Sok San Resort on Koh Rong Island. Here are a few shots. One from last night and the rest from 6am this morning (now to me)

I am in love with the beauty and simplicity of this island, a true paradise! I originally planned to leave tomorrow to allow me a day back in PP. Pretty sure that today I will be adding a night and heading back Tuesday. I can be tired – it is just a 3 day work week…

The trip between Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville was very long for me. I was in the slowest, oldest, most crowded minivan. I will go home by air conditioned bus or at least in a van younger than my daughter (24)

It is possible Sok San Resort may inspire a second post. Perhaps with more details and pictures of my epic? journey here 😊