May already?!  Is it too late to talk about my December trip to Kenya?

Wow!  Even with the limitations and monotony imposed by a global pandemic, 2021 is flying by!  Masks, curfews, social distancing, quarantines all over the planet for more than a year now. It almost feels normal at this point…

I am fortunate to live in Uganda where we so far have evaded the level of spreading that so many nations are experiencing. But I am also unable to visit my family in Canada.  If I elected to go home right now I would have to choose between seeing my daughter or my parents, because interprovincial travel is a no-no. And that’s after paying for 2 weeks in quarantine.  So I wait and hope.

I have a trip planned for my upcoming birthday, so I figure its about time I post something about my Christmas trip to Nairobi.  I didn’t really do much touristy but I still have a tale or two to share.

I went to Nairobi with my guy, Maina, who is Kenyan, so I traveled a little differently than when I am a solo female.

First difference, we went by bus not plane.  In non-pandemic times several busses run between Nairobi and Kampala and much of the travel time is at night.  But these are pandemic, lockdown, curfew times so no night busses.

We got up just before the crack of dawn to be out catching a bodaboda in time to make the bus at 7am on Saturday morning.  We naively assumed that would be easy. Not the case for us. At 6:30ish we were walking Bukasa Road with our backpacks wondering if we would make it!!   Obviously we did, but it was a mildly stressful start to the day.

The bus got out of Kampala late, closer to 8:30am instead of the scheduled 7:30. Kenya curfew was 10pm at the time, so schedule mattered!

We were socially distanced on the bus…. 1 person per 2 seat side, so 2 per row. That was nice. I was determined to keep my mask on the entire 13-15 hour journey. I confess that after about 7 hours the combination of non-functioning air conditioning and nobody else keeping a mask on (except my guy, a true mask trooper) I was airing my face out regularly.

MASH bus depot Kampala, boarded and ready to go
Complimentary water and coke, not so ample leg room 😆
Masked Travelling Accountant
Masked Travelling Maina
Leaving Kampala
Early morning Uganda landscape

A significant difference between the bus here vs at home is these ones have no toilets.  So you pee when the bus stops. Period.   Bus bathrooms are usually disgusting, but in a pinch they can save you.  And, let’s face it, bus depot and service station toilets are also disgusting. 

Rural Uganda

Does anyone else limit their water intake while traveling to minimize their water output? 

The border was uneventful for me. I showed my negative covid test results and my work permit and through I went. No need to pay for a visa because I am a resident of East Africa:)

Maina had a wee bit of excitement. Because of travel bans he did not have the exit and reentry stamps he was required to have in July (every 6 months) Easily explainable, and with a small recognition to the border officer he was also through.

Interstate pass means no visa required
Border crossing at Busia
Fellow travellers at the Busia border
And now we are in Kenya
Beauty stop?
Rural Kenya

The ride was hot (see air-conditioning comment above), scenic, and uneventful until it became questionable if we would make it to Nairobi before curfew. Then my stressed out inner worrier emerged in full force.  As we left Nakuru after 7pm, in unrelenting traffic, panic started to set in. What would happen if we got to Nairobi after curfew!  Please understand that I have been responsible for trip planning ever since I got married the first time. I had no idea what we would do.

I needn’t have worried at all because of my travel partner. He grew up in the village but lived in Nairobi for more than 25 years, so he was not concerned. BUT he could see my panic rising, so he acted.  He called a friend in the police force who assured him we should have no trouble but if we did, just call the friend back and he would send a car from the nearest detachment to deliver us to our Airbnb.  My stress instantly subsided.  There are so many ways to say I love you without saying the words. Calling an old friend for a favour just to ease the worry of your lady is definitely one of those ways.

This post is long already, but our late dark arrival in Nairobi is too funny not to include.

There is a crazy amount of construction on the roads approaching and in Nairobi.  Like summer in Canada, where they shove 12 months of repairs into 5 months of work time.

Well, our bus drivers got lost!  Yes, it is literally their job to know how to get to from the station in Kampala to the one in Nairobi, but nope. The changes were beyond their knowledge. It ended up with Maina and another passenger sitting up front trying to direct the driver.

When he realized that we were very close to the location of our Airbnb, at approximately 10:30 pm so 30 minutes past curfew, Maina asked me to trust him and get off the bus there.  we were at a well lit round-about with a large service station. I said sure and we disembarked.

This service station was well populated, vehicles refueling, shoppers in the store and even the food counter was still manned despite being past curfew.  We got food, beer and a taxi without any difficulty. Curfew in Nairobi was quite different than Kampala at that time! 

The Airbnb was perfect. We settled in, had some beer, snacks and laughs and our vacation was underway. * we had some minor excitement mid-bus ride concerning the Airbnb but it all worked out.

Some water as we read the house rules
The next morning.  Posted without permission 🥴

Cottage weekend in Entebbe

It has been almost six months since I posted, but I am finally inspired to write again. I have had a follow up jackfruit post in my head for months, but so far it remains in my head.

The first weekend of December I took a mini vacation to Entebbe. It was my second mini vacay to Entebbe since Uganda lockdown restrictions lightened up. The first time I revisited 2 Friends hotel to take advantage of the reduced rates and, most importantly, get out of the apartment and Kampala for the first time in months.

This weekend we found our accommodation through Airbnb. It is hard to believe that this weekend´s cottage cost less for two nights than the first stay did for one. Yes, I said cottage. A magical little house on a beautiful property in lovely Entebbe.

Like Kampala, the most complicated part of getting anywhere is finding it. Uganda is not big on actual street numbers or street signs so Google maps is helpful but still not a perfect solution. Oh, and it was raining so the ´roads´ were even less road-like than usual. When we arrived at the property we had a good inch of road mud attached to the tires.

As a new couple we had some degree of tension while we navigated our way there, but we did not hit full argument so we considered it a successful experiment.

Then we got out of the car, saw the property and the gorgeous view of Lake Victoria and all remaining tensions just faded away.

Dickens met us at the gate and showed us around the cottage. We unloaded the vehicle and then went back out to get some dinner. We shared a whole grilled tilapia and fries at 2 Friends restaurant because it is a favourite of mine and I love to share.

Before & After – Approximately 20 minutes!

When we returned to the cottage there was a thermos of spiced tea waiting for us on the door because ¨it is the coldest day of the year¨. It actually was cold – even this Canadian girl was in a hoodie. But not December-in-Canada cold though, so I won´t rub in what the actual temperature was.

This little cottage is a tiny home dream. I could live there long term if I was able to remodel the kitchen slightly to allow counter space.

The entrance way doubles as a sitting area and dining area, with double doors that open to make it feel more like a patio than an inside room. The bedroom is beautifully appointed and the bathroom is roomy with a great shower.

Without a doubt, the library/sitting room/2nd bedroom was my favourite space. It has a cozy chair, desk and side table and a large window to make it feel larger and very open. The daybed functions as a second bed but also as a comfy sofa where we spent Saturday evening watching Out of Africa. Sure the movie is about Kenya, but it is still east Africa, right?

The artwork around the cottage is, I assume, the source of the cottage name – Casita del Arte.  Original pieces full of colour and character.  I was captivated all weekend as I discovered different details of the pieces as I studied and restudied them.

Our host, Dr Nathaniel Dunigan, keeps the house stocked with coffee, yogurt, nuts, granola and other sundry necessities and a fresh fruit basket greets you when you arrive.  These small additions made the cottage even more homey and welcoming. Saturday morning we were gifted with some delicious chocolate muffins which I enjoyed from the elevated treehouse dining platform while reading our host’s book.

The property comes with five friendly canines. They are welcoming and quite happy to explore the cottage at every opportunity. Samson spent much of Saturday morning laying on the mat in the entrance way. This may not be the place for you if you do not like dogs, but it certainly is if you are a dog lover.

Of course no trip to Entebbe is truly complete for me until I go to Entebbe Botanical Gardens. We spent an hour or two on Saturday enjoying the Garden’s beach and the recent upgrades to the facilities. I still have not ventured in to Lake Victoria for a swim, but some day I will.

The sunset view when we returned was spectactular!

One final detail that made the stay perfect is that proceeds from the rental provide scholarships The AidChild Leadership Institute.  

This is directly from their website https://aidchild.org/:  “Airbnb Guestrooms at A.L.I., Entebbe – Charming, private guestrooms and baths inside the AidChild Leadership Institute (A.L.I.), a modern education facility.  Your hosts are A.L.I.’s interns, welcoming you to also enjoy their library, spacious gardens with a lake view, and free WiFi! Eight minutes from the airport. Gym and swimming pool within walking distance.  Proceeds from your stay pay for the academic needs of  our interns.”

We had a peaceful and laid back weekend and were even offered a late checkout. We headed back to Kampala before 1pm and stopped along Gaba Road for some nyama choma before arriving home. *Nyama choma  is a specialty of grilled goat meat, very popular in Kenya where it is considered the national dish. Yes, I eat goat now 🙂

We are going to Kenya for Christmas, negative Covid test dependent, so I will be eating more nyama choma and will also have something new to write about. This will be much less of a safari trip that last Christmas vacation, but I am sure it will still be an adventure.

Thanks for reading!