When I called myself A Travelling Accountant in April 2017, I imagined myself posting about vacation trips with some volunteering travel mixed in.
My first posts were about my first volunteer assignment through Accounting for International Development (AFID), to Cambodia, where I spent May and June 2017 working as a pro-bono accounting consultant.
Sole passenger on the mighty Mekong – Phnom Penh
Life happened quickly and dramatically, and somehow, I celebrated my 5th anniversary in Kampala Uganda in January 2024. Here is a sunset view from my lovely garden.
Though Cambodia was the first time I volunteered abroad as an accountant, it was on a different type of volunteering trip in 2012 that the seed of the dream was planted. That trip, I was one of nine employees selected to travel to rural Peru to provide solar lighting for 30 families living outside of a small village in the Andes. I shared a small post and some of my favourite photos here in October 2018.
I still suck at selfies but this young lady and I shared some laughs
Like many people, the Covid pandemic gave me a taste of remote work. I liked it. A lot. In early 2021, I was fortunate to land a remote role with the NGO that brought me to Uganda, saving me from Kampala commutes to the office, and now I can’t imagine working any other way.
After almost 5 years with that NGO it was time to move on. I took some steps to prepare for a new career as an accounting consultant – I revised my LinkedIn profile, bought a portable second monitor, travel keyboard, long range flight gear. The Universe listened. And AFID helped, of course. Now I work fully remotely, for a UK NGO that operates in Zambia. I live in Uganda, travel to Zambia and, best of all, can work from Canada too. I am no longer limited to 4 weeks of vacation to visit my family.
Why the background? To share how a girl from a small town in northern Manitoba somehow ended up living in Uganda, working as Director of Finance for a small NGO that trains young Zambians in construction and who will spend April 2024 living and working in Valencia Spain!
Me & my Zambian colleagues before pelting each other with paint – Jan 2024
I will be in Spain for the entire month of April and intend to post weekly while I am there, sharing my adventures and daily experiences on the Spanish Mediterranean, travelling with Remote Year.
Who/what is Remote Year? A travel agency? Yes. A community? Yes. From the website: Work remotely. Explore the world. We’ll handle the rest.
I would love to do a full year tour of all the continents but I will start with one month. Maybe next time it will be a four month tour.
I hope you will come along with me through my posts. And if you are interested in trying Remote Year yourself, I have a referral link that will save us each $100!
I was recently recalled back to Uganda early from a work trip to Zimbabwe. The recall came on March 18, 2020 and was based more on the volatility of the governments involved that the virus itself. At that time neither Zimbabwe nor Uganda had confirmed cases of Covid-19.
I was originally going to fly back today, Sunday March 22. I would not have been able to however because Uganda closed its borders today. Being stranded in Zimbabwe would have been fine by me except my visa would have expired on April 12th. Zimbabwe does not do in-country visa renewals, so if things were not opened up by then I could have been in a bit of a pickle.
Anyway, the first available flight out was on the morning of Thursday March 19th. 11:15 am departure to be exact. The experience was so unusual I was compelled to start writing about it on that first leg of my trip from Harare to Nairobi.
On the night of the 18th the Uganda president made an announcement regarding travel in that caused no small degree of confusion for many of us looking to come back. Based on the speech it was vague as to which countries would result in putting people into quarantine and it also looked like that quarantine could last up to 32 days.
While the people in Kampala worked out if the quarantine would apply to me, I considered taking my employer up on a previously declined offer to repatriate me to Canada. If I was going to face a 32 day quarantine, Canada was looking pretty good. At least they would only lock me up for 2 weeks! (at the time of writing the Uganda quarantine period as been confirmed to be 14 days not 32)
I was assured that Zimbabwe was not on the list of countries to be quarantined so I booked the last minute one way flight back to Kampala.
The next day, when I arrived at the airport with my South Africa colleague who was also heading home early, I first noticed how empty the airport was. It was 9 am on a weekday and looked more like 2 am.
I proceeded to the front of the line for check-in. Actually, I was the line.
I handed the attendant my passport and he pulled up my reservation. What happened next was a first for me. He spent about five minutes running around talking to people to determine if I would be allowed to enter once I landed in Uganda. He eventually concluded that I would and proceeded with my check in.
Once through security, again there was no line at all, I walked into a near empty waiting area.
The shops were even more empty than usual for the Zimbabwe airport. I bought a t-shirt for myself and a trillion dollar Zimbabwe bond note from 2008. Actually, I paid a little too much for a full suite of notes (one million, 100 million, 10 billion etc) But I knew that the two gentlemen I bought from could really use the money.
When my flight was called it was probably the fastest boarding of a midday flight ever.
view from the silent flight
The flight itself was well under half full. The Embraer 190 for Kenya Airways has an economy seating capacity of 84 and don’t think there were much over 30 of us on board. We were a second stop, so some were already on board.
The only row with two people seated side by side was filled with two travel companions. Every other row had one person per side, only one for the whole row, or was empty.
In the Zimbabwe airport and on the plane it was unsettlingly quiet. No laughter, or chatter and nobody dared to cough!
After a quick disembarkment in Kenya we walked to the shuttle. People maintained a distance from each other. One quarter to one third of the passengers were in various types of face masks. Of those of us standing on the shuttle I saw only one very briefly touch a handle. The rest of us kept our arms crossed or at our sides.
Again it was grim, silent and all business.
I believe Kenya might be the busiest airport in East Africa. It is certainly a hub airport. Our shuttle passed several baggage processing bays. A few had a scant amount of baggage moving along but most were completely dormant.
Workers were sitting and chatting. Some wore face masks, some had them hanging below their mouths.
Waiting for us when we got inside was a person in a white coat, mask and gloves and a temperature reader. All of us stood while he read our temperatures, without touching us of course.
That is not unusual in East Africa since they are vigilant about Ebola, but the heavy presence of soldiers in fatigues seemed significantly more than I remember from my last time in the airport.
Given the usual volumes at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi, there are many well equipped stations for security screening. We were directed to the furthest station, passing six or seven that were completely empty. It was the middle of the afternoon and we passed through security in record time.
While on the shuttle and then sitting in the airport food court I was struck with this thought a few times – that burqas seem like a decent idea right now. They definitely provide some good facial and body coverage. I imagined some of the women wearing them snickering at the people wearing the little paper masks (just my imagination – no snickers were heard!)
The final leg from Kenya to Uganda was close to normal. The plane was smaller, so the same number of people filled the plane to half capacity or more.
There was even a small amount of talking and laughing.
Before take off we were given a new medical declaration form to complete for Uganda. When I flew back to Uganda from Burundi on March 11th we were still filling in the Ebola focused form. Now it is a Covid-19 focused form with a short question or two about Ebola on the bottom.
At the Kampala airport they did the usual review of the medical form and my yellow fever card while looking at my passport photo page. I stated that I came from Zimbabwe and I was waived through to customs for my declaration. That was it.
There was a group of twenty to thirty people gathered by officials just on the other side of the person who reviewed my form. My assumption was they might be heading for quarantine. They were being guided somewhere just as I proceeded to customs. We mingled for a few seconds but don’t worry, I didn’t touch anyone or anything.
The rest of my return was completely normal, except I suppose, that all the workers were in face masks.
On a non-travel related note, the entire time in Zimbabwe I was able to charge my phone and turn on the lights. This was unexpected since Zimbabwe has been subject to planned power outages due to short supply for over a year. When I got to the apartment in Kampala however, all was dark. The power was out for hours. And again the next night. It was actually out for about 12 hours Friday evening/night and Saturday morning. Of all the aspects of Zimbabwe that I might want Uganda to mirror, power supply would not be on the list!
I’ve decided to make a post that reads something like my brain functions. Random, scattered thoughts with no discernable theme or purpose.
Today I woke up to the usual – birdsong and the quite busy sounds of the building guys sweeping up the courtyard. Weekday and weekend mornings alike, it is a gentle and friendly way to wake up. Busy sounds here are quieter than home. No lawnmowers or weedwackers. Even the traffic sounds are softer.
Why do I appreciate the birds here like I never did at home? It started my first morning in Harare and has not lessened in 9 months. This video is from that morning. I was capturing the weaver bird but got a raven on top of the adjacent building as well.
I’ve already been 9 months in Africa, excepting a two week winter interlude in December. Southeast Africa specifically. I have experienced Zimbabwe summer and had a tiny taste if it’s winter. And I survived an unusually hot Uganda summer. Now it is pleasant- even cool on the odd morning.
I am used to power outages. Often at expected times like extreme storms but also just out of nowhere and for hours at a time.
Today I had to go to the ATM. On the way there I passed a man in an Expos jersey. I said to him “that’s an old shirt” He laughed and said “yes it is” A quick Canadianamoment on Tank Hill Road, Kampala Uganda
I just googled it – the Montreal Expos haven’t been around since 2004! **Major league baseball for the youngsters and non-Canadians
After getting money I stopped in at Coffee N Cake for something to eat. Ordered a rolex. I usually go to Holy Crepe and have their crepe rolex so it was time for a traditional one. The menu said it was an omelet rolled up in a tortilla. I made sure it was actually in a chapati before ordering. It was. They say tortilla so foreigners understand. They may be similar but they are definitely not the same thing.
When buying eggs I noticed some say organic and others don’t. I’m pretty sure the unmarked eggs are still pretty ‘organic’ here so I didn’t pay extra for the label.
This cheese has been a favourite since my family was here. I get one of these every week. On my spelt bread it is delish!
I have finally started reading my friend’s book. I ordered the hard copy while I was living with her in Harare. It was at my daughter’s when I got home in December but I didn’t bring it back so I haven’t read it yet. Debbie asked me to review it on Amazon and I want to, so I bought the kindle version this morning. So far I am loving it. It’s like hanging out with her again. You can buy it here: Debbie’s Book
I stopped at my usual roadside shop to reload my mobile money. Had a great chat with Beatrice. She owns this little business across from my work and on my walking route to anywhere in my neighborhood. We started by saying hi as I walked by but now we have great chats whenever I stop by. I also bring her my empty egg cartons. She sells eggs so they are handy for her and I am not adding to the trash pile!
I went shopping wearing my Levis khakis and a tshirt. It was about 22° according to my weather app. Sitting in the restaurant I noticed only one person using the electric fans. He had it blowing right at him from about 3 feet away. I realized I must be somewhat acclimatized because I wasn’t hot at all. Yes, he was a white guy in touristy clothes.
On my walk back I saw these tiny bananas on the roadside. They will never grow up and get eaten. But I am fascinated by the banana enough to have dedicated a post to it! Haha! So I brought these home.
Also on my walk home, this lovely butterfly. It was flitting all over but let me get this photo with my phone.
I planned to walk to my friends’ home to sit in their lovely garden and play with their dog. They are out of town right now. Phil in Burundi, Natalia in Columbia. I’m losing my motivation though, and it’s threatening to rain *queue thunder
I don’t know exactly this became my life. Working in Africa with friends around the globe. But I am so grateful that it has.
Hopefully I will be sharing an exciting update from the job front very soon. At least I am finally getting interviews!
A few months ago I introduced my stylist and the process we were going through (see post). Now I am happy to close the loop and let you know how it turned out. This has been an educational and fulfilling process for me and I am so happy that I did it. While I was already comfortable in my skin, I now feel much more confident in my clothes and in my ability to shop and create looks for my body going forward.
At the point of the last post we had finished the consultation phase and Jen was in the middle of planning and sourcing my wardrobe. I know it was not an easy task for her, especially since it was all happening online. No trying on or even just window shopping together. Plus, we had the time constraint of getting everything ordered in time to be shipped to my sister’s address in Northern Manitoba before she came to visit in April with our Mum and Aunt.
Everything I purchased came from Banana Republic and Simons. In the end I spent a little more than I intended to, like every shopping trip I have been on. Not because of any pressure or expectation from Jen, but because I wanted almost every item she suggested.
**I made several attempts to buy from RW&Co but was unsuccessful due to issues with my credit card address (according to the emails) and their customer service was polite but not helpful.
**A shout out to Banana Republic though, who had a similar problem but a great customer service process to resolve it.
Jen built many looks for me using the Smart Closet app with the hopes that I could log in to the same account and go from there. That didn’t work out due to technical difficulties so instead Jen sent me screenshots of the looks using our Google Drive. I did like the app though, so I set it up on my phone and recreated those looks as well as more.
Here are some of the looks sourced and styled by Jen for me:
Pants – Banana Republic Bolero – Maison Simons Top – Woolworths, Acacia Mall Kampala
Top – Banana Republic Skirt – Maison Simons
Skirt – Banana Republic Bolero – Maison Simons Top – Woolworths, Acacia Mall Kampala Shoes – Bata
Top & Skirt – Maison Simons
Top – Maison Simons Pants – Banana Republic Photo – my Mum
What can I say about working with Jen. The experience has been fun, educational, enriching and a confidence builder. I also feel like I have made a friend.
I approached Jen in between job postings in Africa, looking for help designing a wardrobe with some specific limitations: business casual with ability to pull together full on business, culturally appropriate for more conservative countries, suitable for warm (very warm) climates and able to fit in two suitcases.
Probably the most challenging limitation was location. I would be in Africa the whole time so Jen would have to find a new way to work with me.
Jen accepted the challenges with enthusiasm. Despite the time and geographic differences she always seemed accessible and attentive. She found ways to use technology to accomplish virtually what is usually done in person – assessing my body type, size and current wardrobe. And the shopping!
She listened to what I said and what I didn’t say to ensure the final result is even more than I hoped for.
I now have a wardrobe I love, examples of several outfits to choose from and the knowledge and confidence to pull together additional looks.
Getting ready in the morning is far less stressful now. It can be quicker except when I have trouble deciding which awesome outfit to wear.
Achieved: -positive educational style experience -looks still feel like me -budget fully respected -fits in 2 suitcases -culturally and climate appropriate
Jen was a pleasure to work with. She respected my wishes and insecurities and was well worth the investment. I found her rates quite reasonable for the level and quality of services I received.
I have been working with my Stylist virtually for a little over a month. It’s not something I ever thought I would do but as a fan of What Not to Wear for it’s entire run, I have believed in the value of a professional stylist for a long time.
How it happened for me is actually related to my first layoff, from Oil & Gas in late 2016. I was one of a great many let go from Finance, and so was my stylist. We didn’t actually ever work together but I remember admiring her skill in the company arranged yoga classes we both attended (you didn’t know that, did you Jen?)
Our paths crossed again in our next roles – mine in corporate finance of a large health care provider, hers as a recruiter with a firm my organisation engaged. Jen made her own path out by following her passion for fashion. I wasn’t so brave and didn’t pursue my dream until I was once again laid off.
Just a few months into my new life/career path, on my Christmas trip home from Africa, I saw a posting of Jen’s on LinkedIn, talking about her services **unsponsored plug for LinkedIn – connect with people, you never know where it can lead ** I thought – hey, I’ve been fumbling around this fashion/style thing for 30 years, why not get some professional help?! And support a fellow corporate defector and dream chaser at the same time!
We connected for just one face to face meeting at Second Cup (how Canadian!) Jen agreed that we could try this virtually since I was off to Uganda days after we talked.
My end goal – a wardrobe that can fit in two large suitcases, that will take me to work, through the weekend and even the odd fancy night out. Work will be largely business casual, but I still need a few fully professional business outfits. I love dresses but need them to be culturally appropriate (not more than an inch or so above the knee) for some more modest countries, since I don’t know where I may land. Climate – well I hope to focus on warm if not hot countries, so fabric is also a constraint.
We are now more than a month into the actual process and I am so happy and confident that I will end up with even more than I hoped for.
We have been creative with how we share information. I needed to show her my wardrobe which meant sharing pictures of everything I have here in Kampala. It took the better part of a Sunday for me because I brought much more than I thought; and in two suitcases! How to get that many pictures from East Africa to Western Canada? Why share a shared Google Drive of course!
Also shared via email, the shared Drive and Instagram – my body shape, using leggings and a tank top and my outfits for several days to better show what I have and how clothes look on me. I learned to cover my face to hide the stern looks of concentration 🙂
How can we discuss what I like without going to a mall? Jen created a private Pinterest board and I pinned away. Then, another Pinterest board for her to share potential items with me. It’s been a very smooth process actually.
And regular Skype meetings. Not a simple task finding times that work for us since we are 10 hours apart. We have settled into morning for her/ evening for me. Usually between 8 and 9 am MST, which is 6 to 7 pm EAT.
We are now at the buying stage – most exciting!!!! Over the next few days Jen is going to send me links to purchase items we’ve agreed on. Some I never would have thought of or looked at without guidance. And I have to let my Mum know that I’m shipping them to her in Manitoba so she can bring them to me when she visits in April! (sorry not sorry Mum)
You can reach Jen and learn more about her and her services on her website jendstyle, and social media- Jen’s LinkedIn and Jen’s Instagram and I highly recommend that you do. You don’t have to sign on for a full meal deal like I have. She has great content and suggestions, and she is just a very real, positive person.
This post is already long, so I will leave off here. In another post soon to come I will talk about another side of Jen’s services. She is building me a look book of how to mix and match what I have and what I am getting. I’m excited to learn how many more ways there are to wear what is already in my closet. I even had the nerve to order this piece from a Uganda designer! I hope to have it in hand this week!
Outside I can hear the building staff sweeping up from the epic equatorial storm that hammered Kampala last night. There’s been one every night since Tuesday and I am told they will continue through April, which suits me fine. I love crazy thunder, lightening and rain storms. Last night was particularly violent though. Doors and windows were slamming and items were blown around on the rooftop, outside and on my wee balcony.
I think maybe the sheer magnitude of the storm has me feeling small, insignificant and vulnerable. Combine that with waking up, alone, in the middle of the night to a world gone mad. And then being a little over-tired due to disturbed sleep. Okay, hormones may be playing a small role as well (tmi again, right?)
So, I’m going to put it all out here. I’m a little weepy and indulging in a small helping of self-pity.
Yes, I’ve chosen to come halfway across the globe by myself and I do not regret it. Sometimes, though, I feel lonely and isolated. Especially during the first half of my day when my Canadian friends and family are sleeping. I try not to send them too many texts (thank you WhatsApp for connecting the world!) but I give in occasionally and send little random thoughts and questions just to feel close.
I have been slower making friends outside of work in Kampala. Partly because in Zimbabwe and Cambodia I actually lived with people. Here I have a great apartment but I’m by myself. But it’s also because I haven’t made much of an effort yet. That will change this week. I’m going to an Internations event this week. I’m also going to use the connections functionality to reach out to some other women expats to see if they want to meet up. I’ve dabbled with a couple of dating apps, but it’s not really my thing plus I’m more interested in finding friends than dates. (side note – ghosting people is just plain rude!)
What else can I write about feeling lonesome? I know it will pass. Probably within a few hours, when I head to the gym again with my boss, Phil. He has introduced me to some places here in Kampala. I also had a co-worker take me out for a day of swimming a few weeks back at the beautiful Lake Victoria Hotel. For 25,000 shillings (approximately $7USD) we spent the entire day lounging by the pool with hotel guests. *not sure how that fits in this post but inserting random thoughts where they don’t belong is a signature trait of mine*
It’s time for me to take the bull by the horns and integrate more in Kampala. That’s why I am here. To LIVE in Africa, not just watch it or be a tourist. And it’s not like I’m shy. I talk to anybody, anywhere, anytime. It’s more like I’m lazy or apathetic, both of which are easily addressed.
** at this point in writing, I was indeed invited to head to the gym, which I did for the second day in a row. I had great workout and my legs will make me pay tomorrow. Endorphins have taken over and I feel great.