Lake Chivero – a perfect day

One of my best days in Harare was the Saturday my friend and co-worker took me out to see another side of life in Zimbabwe – one outside of my cushy little cocoon of Gunhill and Borrowdale. All I did was provide some US cash and get in the car.

His work organising the day started before mine (see previous post about my privileged existence). He arranged for and picked up the car, then picked me up. Next we went to change some US cash to Zimbabwean bond. Why, you may ask? Well because $40 US became $112 bond! Despite the government insisting that the currencies were one to one (they gave up on that later), the exchange rate on the street clearly indicated otherwise.

Then we put some petrol in the car, stopped at the supermarket for some beer and snacks and off we went on my local, non-upscale, adventure.

First stop was Snake World, a pretty modest attraction that a few tourists and school children take in. But it was right up my alley. My friend was horrified to learn that at one point I had lived with a snake, my then-boyfriend’s corn snake Rusty. Honestly, the only Zimbabwean I have met who doesn’t have a problem with snakes is the young man who was working at Snake World. He gave us a great tour, explaining all about the snakes and even riling up the cobras to get them to strike – at the glass, don’t worry.

There was a small non-venomous snake that I held – while Enos was a good 10 feet away – hahah! Then at the end of the tour I also got to hold 2 chameleons!

After leaving Snake World we went for beer and braai – based on my credit card statement and somewhat backed up by my internet search – the place is Club Millenium. It’s a roadside establishment (restaurant, bar) with seating outside as well as in a canopied area with open walls. The walls may close up as well but I didn’t see that.
The process to eat involves going to the onsite butcher to buy your meat and then walking it over to the guys manning the braai to get it cooked. You pay everybody separately as you walk through the process.

We ordered some beer and grabbed a table under the canopy. Football (soccer for my fellow North Americans) was on the tv’s, typical of sports bars everywhere. The music was mostly the same as bar tunes at home with some African music was mixed in as well. The meat arrived along with sadza as well as sliced cucumber and tomato. It was a very tasty, meaty feast eaten with our hands. We had pork, beef and boerewors (sausage) – so I’m not kidding about meaty. I was in heaven because – meat! Yum! And grilled meat is the best meat. Did I mention there was meat?

After a couple/few brews (less than 4% alcohol, relax!) we went for a drive to Lake Chivero. There people were having a great time at the beach. Swimming, listening to tunes, dancing, grilling – braai everywhere! We enjoyed the view and talked for a while.

We stopped at the roadside bar again before heading home. It was a really nice day so why rush to end it. When I finally got home it was about 7pm, so the day was about 8 hours all told.

I was tired but there was a dinner party at the house so my socializing continued to well past 11. So did my alcohol consumption – but when in Zim!

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